Self Made Craft

A knitter usually goes through lots of preparation before sitting down to knit. We choose the perfect yarn, pattern, and needles, and then need to choose which size to make.

When you look at a knitting pattern, there are typically two sets of dimensions given: the "To Fit" and the "Actual Measurements."

The "To Fit" measurements represent the knitter's actual bust measurement. This is the measurement of your bustline (or chest / pecs) at fullest point.

The "Actual Measurements" are the actual size of the finished garment. Sometimes these measurements are given right along with the "to fit" measurements, but sometimes you have to check the schematic.

In the case of my Camellia sweater pattern, you're given the "To Fit" measurements in the pattern description, and the "Actual Measurements" on the schematic:

To Fit: 30(34, 38, 40, 42, 46, 50, 54)"

Actual Measurements: 33(36, 40, 43, 47, 50, 54, 57)"

So, each size is made to have several inches of ease at the bust. If the "actual measurements" were smaller than the "to fit" measurements, the garment would have what's known as "negative ease" and would be meant to stretch to fit, rather than to be loose-fitting.

NOTE: There is such a range of ease here because the pieces are knit to contain whole repeats of the lace motifs.

Again, you can play with how much ease each size has in the blocking, since the stitch pattern is a ribbed lace. I'm assuming in the "actual measurements" that you've blocked each piece flat. If you decide not to block at all, your sweater would have a closer fit through the bust.

When you go to choose a size, you need to first find your bust measurement in the "To Fit" measurements, and then see how big the sweater will be in the "actual measurements."

If the "actual measurement" is close to the way you like your sweaters to fit, you'd choose the pattern that was written with your size in mind (ie: if you're a 38, and you like the way sweaters with 2? of ease fit, knit the 38.) If you think that the actual measurement is too far from your desired fit, you'd pick a different size, either the next size up or down.

If you're between sizes, you should check the size below yours and the one above yours. If you're a 41, would you rather knit the 40 (actual measurement 43?) or the 42 (actual measurement 47??)

In fact, I'd suggest that if you're between sizes, you go a size down. It's going to most likely still have more ease when fully blocked than your actual bust size. You can then try on the finished sweater and adjust the fit if you need to. If you want another inch or so at the bust, there's plenty of give in the knit fabric to accommodate that.

If you choose a size with an actual measurement that is close to the way you'd like your sweaters to fit, knit the pieces, and seam it together, you can manipulate the fit a LOT in the blocking.

Stefanie Japel is a knitwear designer, author, and instructor. She teaches at live events and also online at http://www.craftsy.com/, where she also writes the Craftsy blog. To learn more about Stefanie, visit http://www.stefaniejapel.com/.